A bridge too far

Yours truly doing the roving reporter bit. Photo: Chris Rose

Rose coloured Starling

Rose coloured Starling : part of a large flock

'Siberian' Stonechat

White winged Black Tern

White winged Black Tern

White winged Black Tern

Day 13

We left our hotel at Ercis at 5.30am, nothing new there then. We drove for about an hour before reaching an area of grassy plains. As usual Soner picked out our target birds, Great Bustards, at some distance. At first only their heads were showing but then all four flew along a ridge giving good views. Other birds in the area included Calandra, Bimaculated and Short toed Larks, Black headed and Corn Buntings and Rollers. Our focus was on Cranes though particularly Demoiselle Cranes. Again we used bridges as observation points from which to scan flood plains and river banks. At each bridge we got out and walked along the banks for some way. At one such stop I forgot my hat a big mistake as it turned out. We walked in the heat of the day towards imaginary Cranes. A shape in the heat haze had to be checked out. When the shape turned out to be a cow or a bush we found another Crane shaped shape and walked further into the wilderness. The heat was getting to me now and I turned back as the fruitless search continued. Back at the bridge a few Terns were feeding. They were mostly White winged Black terns with a single Black tern a couple of Common terns, Little tern and a single Gull billed Tern. A Common Sandpiper and a Stone Curlew were also seen on an island. Another feature of this area were big flocks of Rose coloured Starlings which favoured the lush flower and clover 'meadows'. The final bridge proved a bridge too far, we had attracted the attention of the army after our usual ' reccy' of the area we returned to find the coach had been surrounded. What more could happen to this coach. The soldiers were well trained and stood with guns at the ready at regular intervals around the coach. However the soldiers were nowhere near as intimidating as the police we had met earlier.

It also proved a bridge too far for me as I was now feeling distinctly strange but the soldiers jumped back in their truck and we all jumped aboard the Skylark, AKA coach with dodgy brakes and a cardboard box for a back window. The bridge too far had given us the opportunity to watch a couple of Montagues Harriers and Vaughan found two Greylag geese but no sign of the sought after Cranes.

Two villages and a Volcano

Paddyfield warbler

Ruddy Shelduck

Moustached warbler

Hoopoe

Slender billed Gull

Armenian Gull

Lesser short toed Lark

Trouble!

White headed Duck

Day 12

Our day began with an early morning mini bus ride up the local Volcano, Nemrut Golu. This volcano was rather special though as the perfectly formed crater had an impressive lake in it. The mini bus ride was cosy but compared with our tractor ride a lifetime ago, it was great. On route I saw a small flock of Rose coloured Starlings flying over a village. Nobody else could see the birds as they, having seats were facing front, whereas I, in my unique position on the wheel arch could see backwards perfectly. Which was little compensation for a sore backside. In addition to the interesting geology we saw a few birds. Our first Armenian gulls drifted over and a Skylark was one of the more familiar sounds to be heard on the trip. Other birds around the rim of the crater included, Ortolan, Horned Lark, Crag Martin, Cuckoo, Rock Sparrow and Water pipit.

Back at lake level we recorded Rook as we began the partial cicum navigation of Lake Van. It wasnt too long before we made our first stop at some reed fringed pools between the road and the 'beach'. It was an excellent spot for birding with a good variety of species : Marsh Harrier, Ruddy Shelduck, Common Selduck, Northern Lapwing, Shoveler, Garganey, Pochard, Armenian gulls, Caspian gulls, Great reed warbler, Moustached warbler and after a little coaxing Paddyfield warbler. Further on we came to a small lakeside village. As we set up our scopes to scan the shoreline we were joined by a group of children from the nearby school. They were naturally curious about us but very polite and well behaved as indeed were their teachers who offered us tea. The little bays around the village were full of birds with Slender billed and Little gulls, good numbers of Black necked Grebes and a single Red necked Grebe. We said our goodbyes and moved on again to another area where a series of pools had formed round the edge of the lake. This provided excellent habitat for large numbers of water and shoreline species. There were literally thousands of hirundines low over the water as well as large numbers of White winged Black terns with a few Black terns, there were large numbers of Black necked Grebe and Red crested Pochard with a good many White headed Ducks. Waders were represented by Marsh Sandpiper, Redshank, Wood Sandpiper, Ruff and Red necked Phalarope. A few Lesser short toed Larks were also around on the tracks and dry areas. We were all enjoying the diverse birdlife of the site but it wasnt long before we were joined by the lads from the local village. At first they showed the normal boisterous curiosity but their attentions became more and more persistent and irritating. It was an outstanding site but it was a relief to get back on the coach as the boys became more insistent and demanding.

As we pulled away there was a loud crack from the back of the bus and as the coach hit the next pothole the whole of the back window shattered. Luckily there was no one sitting on the back seat. One of our young friends had decided to lob a rock at us as a parting gift. There was no fuss. The driver took it in his stride, nobody got angry. The boys sorted the culprit out, he got a whack with a stick from the eldest boy. We moved on - minus our back window.

Bee eaters and Machine guns.

Help is at hand

' You aint gonna shift it with that'

See see Partridge

Blue cheeked Bee eater

Blue cheeked Bee eater

Blue cheeked Bee eater

Blue cheeked Bee eater

The village

Short toed Eagle

Short toed Eagle

Cave town

Lunch on the Tigres

Western rock Nuthatch

Day 10
We continued to travel East and made our first stop in an area of dry grassy plains. It was a protected area largely for Gazelles which we saw distantly. More interesting for us though were the See see Partridges which ran just in front of us giving much better views than at Birecik. We also saw Desert Finch on the track in front of us. We had hoped to see Sandgrouse as well but only a few people got the briefest of flight views. We had better views of Desert finch in the garden of a bungalow despite the deafening attention of a man who thought it was sociable to join us for his mobile phone conversation. As we attempted to get a little closer to the bird the man followed us. Why he needed a phone I'll never know, I'm sure he could be heard quite clearly in Istanbul without one. Anyway everyone got to see the Finch which was the important thing. There were also good numbers of Finsch's Wheatear in the area.
Next stop was a Kurdish village where incredibly Blue cheeked Bee eaters had been established a colony in a mound right in the centre of the village. Absolutely stunning birds, a photographers dream but in complete contrast to the drab huts and piles of dung in the village.
We moved on past a town called Batman ( I couldn't repeat the crack Vaughan made about the little red breasted birds we see on Christmas cards but you could feel it coming along time before we got to the town.)We stopped at a town called Diyarbakir for a Pizza. We were now very close to the Syrian border and the road was just a mine field away from the lookout towers at times. The sensitivity of the area was made only too clear when we stopped just outside the town of Cizre on the river Tigres. We had stopped to look for Red wattled Lapwing on the islands in the river below us. The area around this part of the Tigres and its tributaries provided the only accessible sites for this species in the Western Palearctic. We scanned the river banks and the islands and after a short time located 2 Red wattled Lapwing. Even through the scope they were quite distant. As we watched two armoured cars pulled in. Several plain clothed police armed with machine guns approached us. Our Turkish guides greeted them but despite their handshakes the police were quite hostile. Papers were checked, phone calls made, more cars arrived, negotiations went on. All the time we waited patiently knowing that the plovers were still there but we couldn't see them. Would we get a better view tomorrow? Finally the police were satisfied we didnt pose a threat to National security and we drove back to our hotel in Cizre.

Day 11
We were all eager to get a better look at the plover but we agreed it was probably better not to test the sense of humour of the police by stopping at the Police station which ironically would have given us the best vantage point from which to get better views of the Lapwing. So we drove further up the river to an area controlled by the army. Soner had a chat to the soldiers and got permission for us to birdwatch a stretch of the river. Unfortunately there weren't any Red wattled Lapwings to be seen only a lone Little Bittern. Our next stop was a town called Hasankeyf, built into the sandstone cliffs which formed the banks of the river Tigres. The cliffs had terraced caves, but also one or two nice detached caves but all in need of a bit of renovation. The cliffs also provided homes for a colony of Lesser Kestrel and excellent habitat for Western Rock Nuthatch. Hasankeyf was a popular visitor centre and we mingled with the weekend tourists as we explored the town. We enjoyed an excellent meal at another novelty restaurant, this one built over the river with Bamboo stakes. The whole structure looked a bit frail and so it proved when one of our number put his foot through the floor.The meal of river fish was most welcome though. After lunch we continued our search for the Red wattled Lapwing. As we drove through one village our progress was halted by an electricity cable draped across the road. In attempting to do a 3 point turn in the centre of the village the coach got stuck in a drainage ditch. Obviously this was a major incident in a small village. Birdwatchers and villagers stood together to watch what would happen next, everybody had an opinion but the more the driver tried the deeper the wheels sank in. Elders summoned children to bring rocks everyone wanted to help, but the coach refused to move. Women watched from doorways as finally a tractor appeared. Luckily it had a winch could lift as wellas pull. We were saved - more handshakes, more smiles and waves as we got back on our coach. These people had few material possesions but they had helped us and been happy to do it.

We continued to stop at bridges to check out the banks and islands. As the storm clouds got ever closer it was beginning to look as if we were going to be unlucky, although we did see a Collared Pratincole, Little tern and huge numbers of Sand Martins. We sent out Soner with a small expeditionary force at one point. I chose to scan the river from the road near the bus. Wrong decision! I will forever be grateful, to Devon Bob for coming back to the bus to tell me a Red wattled Lapwing had been located. Those of us looking from the road made our way as quickly as we could to the fields adjacent to the river. We could see where the rest of the group were looking. Straight at us as it happened so the bird had to be close. Yes, there it was, in a recently ploughed field right in front of us. Red eye, red bill, superb. If only I'd brought my camera, but I was happy to get such cracking views of the bird.
Everyone was well chuffed at getting good views of the bird and travelled on in good spirits through the mountains towards Lake Van until we came to an abrupt halt at a mountain pass. A huge cloud of smoke indicated they were dynamiting a rock face. When we were eventually allowed through it was clear that clearing the rock was part of a major road upgrade. As we approached our hotel in Tatvan on the North west shore of Lake Van a Honey Buzzard flew low over the coach.

The Long Short cut.

Red rumped Swallow

Mediterranean Slant-eyed Grasshopper

Red tailed Wheatear

Red tailed Wheatear

Cinereous Bunting

Pale Rock Sparrow

Pale Rock Sparrow

Day 9

The day of the Long Short cut. The management, bless 'em were sensitive to the disappointment of the group at not seeing Kurdish Wheatear, recently split from Red tailed Wheatear, by some 'authorities'. To their great credit, despite the considerable additional mileage and expense our programme was changed to make the trip to Nemrut Dagi, a reliable site for the species. In fact having 'cleaned up' in Birecik so quickly we did have the extra day to play with. After some discussion at the front of the bus it was decided to go the direct route and avoid the motorway. Fine, except the direct route included country lanes which meant pot holes which meant the coach could only travel at 30-40 mph.

We eventually arrived at our destination - well nearly. We had to walk the last few kilometres up hill as the bus couldn't turn round further up. No problem, we set off with everyone going at their own pace spotting a few birds here and there: Red rumped Swallow, Golden Oriole, Rufous Bushchat, Woodchat Shrike, Black eared Wheatear and Corn Bunting. Most interesting sight though was an insect which landed on the road, some kind of Cricket/grasshopper but I aint sure and I cant find any good insect ID websites. So if anyone can identify what it is please let me know. Anyway the hill was getting steeper, it was getting hotter so when a mini bus turned up we jumped in. The mini-bus took us to the entrance to the Nemrut Dagi park. Fortunately we didnt have to go any further as the Red tailed Wheatear was found on rocks right my the entrance and gave excellent views as it responded to a tape. Pale rock Sparrow and Cinereous Bunting also gave excellent close views.

PS Many thanks to Chris Rose for the Grasshopper identification

Birecik - again

Striated Scops Owl

Bald Ibis

Pygmy Cormorant

Little Swift

Chestnut shouldered Petronia

Dead sea Sparrow

Rufous Bushchat /Opticron TBS 80

Sunset on the Euphrates from our Hotel room

I'm fed up trying to retrieve my lost page so Im just going to do an abbreviated version lacking the usual quick wit and cutting edge social comment but thanks to the guys who responded to my appeal and tried to help.

Day 7

We left early the next morning but we didnt get very far. As we pulled away from some traffic lights quite close to the hotel an expensive sounding crash was heard under the coach. It sounded as if we'd driven over a crate or a cat with armour. In fact the explanation was much simpler; the brakes had dropped off, discs, drum the lot. Thats when our facilitator Yeltsin got facilitating and we were getting on to our alternative transport, a mini bus in about 20 minutes. The mini bus took us to a village of smiling children all in their national school uniform of blue and white tunics. From the village the group walked up a fairly steep scree covered valley where Red tailed Wheatear were known to breed. Despite extensively searching the slopes there was no sign of the Wheatear. We did get good views of several other species though including Bimaculated Lark, Cinereous Bunting, Upcher's warbler, Black eared Wheatear and Pale rock Sparrow. We had a pleasant lunch at a restaurant and then drove back to be reunited with our coach complete with brakes. We drove on towards the river Euphrates and as we crossed the bridge to the town of Birecik I noticed a roadsign which seemed to sum up much of what we had seen in South eastern Turkey. A largely rural population living and working much as they had done for centuaries hardly touched by the 'westernised' modern Turkey further west, except for satellite television that is.

We drove straight to the 'tea gardens' in Birecik, an area of trees and park between the river and the town, with a series of cafes where the men drank tea and played cards. Soner went ahead of us and it wasnt long before he was pointing upwards to one of the trees. We gathered round him. there just above our heads in full view was a Striated Scops Owl. Wow. No tapes no torches the bird just sat there waiting for the Cicada feast to come. We tried to draw as little attention to the Owl as we could but we needn't have worried the children who surrounded us were more interested in sharing their picnic than looking at a bird. So how did we celebrate ? We had a cup of tea. Seemed very appropriate. Some of our more restless chums were soon on the move again and it wasnt too long before someone found a Long eared Owl roosting not too far away.

We checked in to our hotel close to the banks of the Euphrates and then went straight out birding. It was now 5.30pm but the temperature was still 41 degrees c. We stopped at some Pistachio groves where we had Chestnut shouldered Petronia and Dead sea Sparrow in the same tree. We were on a roll and moved on to an industrial area on the other side of the river. The area included a cement works and former quarry with extensive reed beds and pools which were the habitat of a small colony of Iraq Babblers. The Babblers proved difficult to see but did perch briefly in a dead tree in the reeds. Only having bins with me proved a real problem as the tree was some distance from our viewpoint. However there were other birds to seen such as a family of Menetries warblers, a fly over Pygmy Cormorant, Squacco Heron and Roller. Quite a day!

Day 8

Even though we started early the temperatures rose quickly as the group climbed up a gorge to look for See see Partridge. We scanned the dry sandy ridges and eventually got distant views of See see Partridge. We tried another area futher away from the town. We had good views of Lesser Kestrel and Short toed Larks, we saw 5 migrating Honey Buzzards and plenty of Rollers but no sign of Cream coloured Courser. A Black bellied Sandgrouse flew past. We took lunch at a floating restaurant on a large reservoir keeping our eyes open for raptors but apart froma couple of Common tern and a Short toed Eagle we saw very little. We headed back to Birecik to have another look at the Menetries warblers and Iraq Babblers. I was delighted to have another chance to see the Iraq Babbler and I wasnt going to make the same mistake twice. I trained my scope on a branch of the dead tree and waited. It paid off and I was rewarded with the views I'd wanted.

While the rest of the group went off for seconds of Menetries warbler I moved to an orchard where Vaughan had found some Dead sea Sparrow's nests. The birds had been feeding on the ground so it was a good opportunity to take some photographes. The sparrows duly obliged and a Rufous Bushchat also got in on the act posing from my telescope!

Help

Hi , if there's anyone out there who knows anything about Blogging I'd love to hear from you. I've basically managed to delete 2 days work. Iwas trying to remove a photo and ended up deleting the whole post titled 'Birecik' I've tried the Help forums but although there seem to be solutions they dont work for me. Cheers.

Day 6 - Marbled Ducks and Kingfishers

Eastern rock Nuthatch

Upcher's warbler

White throated Robin

Pied Kingfisher

Rufous Bushchat

Peregrine

We decided to go back to the Delta very early and have another crack at finding Marbled Duck. An inspired decision as we eventually had good views of a female Marbled duck with chicks. We went back to the hotel to pick up our bags before heading off east. A local reserve on a river was our first destination. Our arrival brought out the officials of the nearby town and there was a sense of occasion as we were warmly greeted. However, I have to admit I was more interested in finding one of my target birds, White breasted Kingfisher. We strolled round together and there were clearly a good number of interesting species to be seen. Pied Kingfishers were much in evidence, a Black Stork circled distantly Great reed warblers and Penduline tits were closer to hand. Lunch was ready but I still hadnt seen the Kingfisher I wanted. I was torn between the need for food and the need for a tick. Decisions,decisions. I hung back, one or two other people went to explore on their own. It was no good the lure of food drew me in. People had gone to alot of trouble to prepare the meal so it would be impolite not to eat it. I was still a bit uneasy though. The White breasted Kingfisher was proving elusive and I felt I was wasting time. After consuming an adequate quantity of Cheese and salad I was off again. This time I did see a flash of turquoise and the silhouette of a bird in a bush but it was that feeling that you know you'd seen the bird in question but not really seen it. It was getting frustrating more fleeting views of birds flying between bushes. I ruefully climbed back on the bus, but as we pulled away someone's sharp eyes, probably Colins, spotted a Kingfisher in full view. We piled out of the coach and I was able to get the views I wanted, of not just one but two White breasted Kingfishers.

Our final site was an orchard lined valley we waited at a roadside water trough to see what birds would come down to drink. White throated Robins were seen in the orchard and a female came down to drink from the trough. Eastern Olivaceous warbler and both Eastern and Western Nuthatches were identified in the area. We took a track and located an Upcher's warbler which responded well to Vaughan's tape. We birded till 6.45pm, a very long but a very rewarding day with a good many new birds seen. We stayed overnight in Gazientep.