Morocco - February 2010 - Part 3

Bald Ibis

Stone Curlew

Stone Curlew

Stone Curlew

Blue Rock Thrush

Black bellied Sandgrouse

Crowned Sandgrouse

Desert Wheatear

Red rumped Wheatear

Red rumped Wheatear

Red rumped Wheatear

Mourning Wheatear

Black Kite

Magpie

'Moroccan' White Wagtail

Day 6

We left our desert retreat and headed south. We explored several likely spots on route and found Spotted Sandgrouse c60, Mourning Wheatear, Scrub warbler and Quail. We even found some water in the stoney terrain where we stopped for lunch. Yes lunch. There was even a change of menu. Instead of Sardines, bread, cheese, Yoghurt and fruit we had Tuna, bread, cheese, Yoghurt and fruit - but the scenery was nice. The birding wasn't bad either 2 lifers in fact: Temminck's Lark and Red rumped Wheatear. We had also noted the almost continual stream of Black Kites moving north towards the Staits of Gibraltar. Our next stop was the famous Tagdilt track. We spread out to cover as much ground as possible. I was lucky to find an African Desert Warbler, much to everyones relief and Dave, Jan, Brian and Chris were rewarded for their Marathon hike with views of another sought after species, Thick billed Lark. Other birds in the area included: Black Kite c200, Long legged Buzzard, White Stork and Stone Curlew.

I cant remember much about the Hotel except that many of the beds were in an elevated position, several feet off the ground in fact. Whether this was something to do with the local wildlife, the plumbing or an ancient sexual ritual we never did find out.

Day 7

Most of the day was spent driving to Agadir. We did some birdwatching at a couple of likely areas on route along the Sous valley. Moussiers Redstart were becoming more numerous and other roadside birds included Great spotted Cuckoo, Woodchat shrike, Thekla lark and Laughing doves around the villages. The towns were chaotic, busy with street traders, handcarts, donkey's, bicycles, trucks full to bursting with people and goods.
In Agadir we checked in to a modern tourist Hotel where we were to stay for 3 nights. Luxury indeed. Everything worked. Outstanding.

Day 8

After a substantial breakfast the group travelled north to the town of Tamri. At about 60k we stopped at CapVir for a spot of sea watching. Apart from Gannets there weren't many birds but we did log Pomerine Skua, Balearic Shearwater and a Manx Shearwater well south of its normal range.
Just north of Tamri, Peter brought the bus to a sudden halt having spotted a small group of Bald Ibis in cliff top fields not far from the road. We watched these strange and endangered birds for some time as they fed quietly in front of us. Having connected with our target bird so quickly we had more time to explore the Sous estuary. During lunch we had chance to look at the distinctive Moroccan races of White wagtail and Magpie. As the river ebbed we could watch a good number of species on the pools and mudflats of the estuary. Waders were well represented with : Kentish plover, Ringed plover, Grey plover, Redshank, Spotted Redshank, Greenshank, Bar tailed Godwit, Black tailed Godwit, Sanderling, Avocet, Green Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Knot, Ruff and Dunlin. Other species included Osprey, Greater Flamingo, Slender billed Gull, Mediterranean Gull, Audouin's Gull, Spoonbill, Grey Heron, Sandwich tern, White Stork, Great White Egret, Little Egret and Barbary Partridge. As the sun began to fall it was time to take up positions for our target bird of the evening Red necked Nightjar. Only trouble was a Golf course was in the process of construction right where the old road had been. Despite our best efforts in negotiating safe passage the jobsworth played the old 'elf and safety card. If you were riding a Camel without a hard hat you were OK but if you resembled a birdwatcher you'd got no chance. The driver drove around the Golf course to somewhere near where we needed to be, but the hassle had only just started. The Red necked Nightjar site just happened to be next to another Royal Palace. Several guards, police, security ect. came to check us out. No problairmo. We smiled, and flapped our arms they smiled and flapped their arms everyone was happy. That was

until the scuffy squaddy with a grudge turned up equipped with radio, mobile and tranny. He had so much gear his rifle dragged on the ground behind him. He gesticulated violently, I think thats what you call it. Ignore him suggested our leader. We lifted our bins towards the orange dusk skies. The soldier became more frenzied and made calls to his superiors. More gestures but no response from the beligerant birders. Finally he said 10 minutes and wandered off never to be seen again. A bit like the Nightjar which settled on the track for a nano-second before disappearing into the darkness. Nice dinner though.

Low tide at Lea Marston

Scaup - Hemlingford Water, Kingsbury

Scaup

Scaup

Scaup

Curlew with Oystercatcher, Lea Marston

Curlew

Oystercatcher

Curlew

Friday 5th March 2010

Haven't finished with the Morocco trip but I need to keep up to date with the local scene. Went to Hemlingford Water first to have another look at the female Scaup. Moved on to Lea Marston via Coton lakes. Very quiet at Coton but noticed someone had put a leaflet from Defra setting out the government policy on eradicating Ruddy ducks. I understand why people feel so strongly about this issue, and I dont want to start an open forum but having just come back from a trip where I saw part of a very small population of White headed Ducks all I can say is that it would be a tragedy if the species was lost to the Western palearctic region.

At Lea Marston 5 Curlew, and 2 Oystercatcher were feasting on worms along the river bank.

Morocco - February 2010 - part 2

White crowned Black Wheatear - widespread

There's a Dupont's Lark in here somewhere!

Cream coloured Courser

Desert trek

White crowned Black Wheatear

Cream coloured Courser

Great spotted Cuckoo - roadside migrant

Great spotted Cuckoo

Common Bulbul

Common Bulbul

Barbary Falcon

Trumpeter Finch

Trumpeter Finch

Bar tailed Desert Lark

Fulvous Babbler

Erg Chebbi

Brown necked Raven

Pharoah Eagle Owl

Ryn discusses the Moroccan economy with a local

Day 4

A relatively short drive from the hotel to Zeida plain for an early morning search for our target bird, Dupont's Lark. Peter had prepared us by saying our chances of seeing this elusive species was only 50/50. He hadn't allowed for Jan's sharp eyes though, and in the event the bird showed very well. We also had flight views of Black bellied Sandgrouse and distant Black Kite. On route we had excellent views of Lesser Kestrel before stopping at a small gorge for lunch in the sun. It was Cheese and Sardine sandwiches again but it tasted better in the sun with White crowned Black Wheatears sharing the rocks with us and Crag Martins flying around. As we left the mountains we drove through a stoney semi desert landscape as we approached the fringes of the Sahara. Our hotel near Erfoud was completely isolated in flat and apparently barren terrain. However, the bus was soon brought to a halt as we spotted a large lark near the track. Hoopoe lark was a new bird for most on board but we didnt stop long as the species was on the itinerary for the next day. We dumped our kit at the hotel and went out straight away to explore the surrounding area on foot. We found Northern Wheatear, Lesser Short toed Lark, Desert Lark, Bar tailed Desert Lark, Dartford and Spectacled warblers but no sign of African Desert warbler despite extensive searching.

The hotel was interesting, the rooms were comfortable enough but the plumbing left a good deal to be desired. Attempts to fix the leaking toilet in our room failed miserably and efforts at getting a shower were soon abandoned. The evening meal of Beef with Apple was very enjoyable.

Day 5

We started the day with another fruitless search for Desert warbler but the walk provided one of the most memorable sights of the trip. In the soft early morning light and stillness of the desert the sight and sound of Hoopoe Larks displaying with their cart-wheeling flights was amazing. We returned to the hotel and got into Land cruisers, our Desert transport for the day. It wasnt long before we were stopping to admire Cream coloured Coursers and Desert Wheatears on route to Erg Chebbi with its magnificent Sand dunes. We searched a variety of mud built buildings and cafes as well as deserted Camel compound looking for Desert Sparrows, one of the must-see birds of the area but we were out of luck. A number of desert species were seen though including: Barbary falcon, Trumpeter finch, Tristram's warbler, Sub-alpine warbler and Brown necked Raven.

As the day wore on it became apparent that not only was there no Desert sparrow or Desert warbler there was also no Desert lunch. This was a serious oversight as I was beginning to hallucinate. Images of huge Melton Mowbray pork pies appeared in the distance, shimmering in the midday heat haze, but always just out of reach. We drove on to Merzouga where we found Fulvous Babbler without too much difficulty but it was a little annoying to find out later that there were also Desert sparrows in the town if we'd know the site.

Our next target was Pharoah Eagle Owl. During our wait at the site we were entertained by rock/fossil sellers who although persistent were good humoured enough. We were also 'entertained' by a Bonelli's Eagle which soared majestically above the cliff. Eventually the Eagle Owl appeared in a crevice before we set off back for our second night at the Desert hotel where we were certainly ready for our meal of Chicken with potatoes filled with cheese.

Morocco - February 2010

Red-knobbed Coot - Lac de Sidi Bourhaba

Red-knobbed Coot

Red knobbed Coot

Red-knobbed Coot

House Bunting, Marrakech

African Chaffinch, Nr. Sidi Bettache


17th-28th February 2010


Eleven of us met up with our leader for the tour, Peter Landsdown at Gatwick airport. After a good flight we arrived at Marrakech airport and boarded the Mini bus which was to transport us around Morocco. We headed north towards Casablanca stopping on route to check out cultivated fields when I say stopping, we casually pulled on to the central reservation of a Motorway. We scanned the adjacent fields to look for Calandra Lark which we duly found as well as migrating Swifts and Swallows. Visible migration would be a continuing feature of our trip. It was good to watch the passage of Swallows, Swifts, Pallid, Common and Little. Another surprise was Little ringed Plover on rough ground at a filling station. Other birds seen on route to our first Hotel at Tamara plage were : Southern grey Shrike, Stonechat, Corn Bunting, Black Wheatear, Little Owl, Marsh Harrier, Little Egret, Cattle Egret, White Wagtail, Magpie, Long legged Buzzard and House Bunting.
Day 2 began with rain and overcast skies. We arrived at an upland area of Oak woodland which produced several familiar birds, Song Thrush, Robin, Woodpigeon, Blackcap and Chaffinch plus some distinctive forms such as African Chaffinch and African Blue tit along with Barbary Partridge and the big prize Double spurred Francolin. We moved on to a long lake; Lac de sidi Bourhaba where we searched for Mediterranean wildfowl in particular. Birds seen here were, Red-knobbed Coot, Marbled Teal, Ferruginous Duck, Pochard, Red crested Pochard, Shoveler, Teal, Tufted Duck, White headed Duck, Black Kite, Common Buzzard, Coot and Fan-tailed warbler. The sun showed itself for the first time as we enjoyed a lunch of Bread, Sardines, cheese and Yoghurt (a diet we would come to know and love) by the side of the lake. During the afternoon we drove to a site near Merja Zerga for another star bird, Marsh Owl. Getting to the site involved a drive along the first of many rough tracks and then a hike. It seemed quite straightfoward until we realised that many of the fields we had to cross were flooded. We all got our feet wet, as we walked along a swollen river bank we collected our first irritating kids! We did manage to see a few birds though: Bar tailed Godwit, Grey plover, Redshank, Dunlin, Oystercatcher, Avocet, Lapwing, Turnstone, Yellow wagtail and a single Caspian Tern. Anticipation grew as we reached the Owl site and met the Guardians of the marsh who would 'find' the Owls for us. Over an hour later with the light fading fast and no sign of any owls our spirits sank. We were just leaving as a Marsh Owl got up from the nearest reeds and landed on the path in front of us. A second Owl flew virtually overhead. Talk about cutting it fine. We drove back to our hotel in Moulay Boussham for an evening meal of mutton with prunes.

Day 3. After breakfast we started the day scanning the estuary from the hotel. We had distant views of Sanderling, Sandwich tern and Curlew and Audouin's gull.Our plans for the following day had to be adjusted as the heavy rains and flooding had blocked our route to the main site for Plain Martin. We headed towards Midelt and the wooded uplands close to a Royal Palace in the Middle Atlas. The weather changed from rain to sleet, to hail, to snow and back to rain again. We did managed to find several species on the lake and around the Palace grounds including: Rock Bunting, Cirl Bunting, Coal tit, Jackdaw, Short toed Treecreeper, Tree pipit, Water pipit, Meadow pipit, Firecrest, Black winged Stilt, Green Sandpiper, Shore Lark, Black necked Grebe, and Ferruginous Duck. We finally located the main target bird, Levaillant's Woodpecker and had prolonged views as it fed on the ground and in the trees. Despite the poor weather in the North of Morocco we had seen all the major target species. The final drive to the hotel proved interesting as the snow and mist made conditions difficult. Our driver saw this as a challenge driving as fast as at any time in the previous 2 days. Several stops were made to relieve the weight in the bus from the 'masonry' which had been accumulated. In near blizzard conditions we saw our only Ruddy Shelduck of the trip.

Waxwings and Woodpeckers

Lesser spotted Woodpecker - Middleton Hall

Waxwing - Wilnecote, Staffs.

Waxwing

Waxwing

Waxwing

Waxwing

Waxwing

Monday 1st March 2010

After a birding tour of Morocco it was back to the delights of the Tame valley today, and what a delight it was. Sunshine, Waxwings and Woodpeckers. The three Waxwings at Wilnecote stayed faithful to the ever decreasing supply of Rowan berries in Shelton road despite the efforts of a pair of Mistle thrushes to move them on.

At Middleton Hall all three Woodpecker species were on show mid morning but unusually it was the male Lesser spotted which was the most obvious.

A full account of the Moroccan adventure will be posted in due course when I've sorted all my photos out.